BASIC TOOLS

When it comes to work around the shop or home, in order to do it yourself you are going to need tools to get the job done. I have thrown together a list of basic tools that everyone should have at their disposal. You can purchase starter kits at Amazon for a fair price, here are a few decent basic Craftsman starter kits you can pick up through our affiliate links. Prices are subject to change but usually around the price tag listed.

Now, lets go over some basic terms;

Fastener: A hardware dFevice such as a screw, bolt, or nail used to join two or more objects together.
Torque: A measure of the twisting force applied to a fastener, usually expressed in pound-feet (lb-ft) or Newton-meters (Nm).
Socket: A tool attachment designed to fit around a bolt or nut for tightening or loosening.
Wrench (Spanner): A hand tool used to grip and turn nuts, bolts, or pipes.
Drill Bit: A cutting tool attached to a drill to bore holes in materials.
Pliers: A hand tool used to grip, bend, or cut wire and other materials.
Chisel: A sharp-edged hand tool used for carving or cutting hard materials like wood or stone.
Level: A tool used to determine if a surface is horizontal (level) or vertical (plumb).
Clamps: Devices used to hold workpieces securely in place during work.
Impact Driver: A power tool that delivers strong rotational force and concussive blows to drive screws or bolts.
Caliper: A measuring tool used to determine the distance between two opposite sides of an object with precision.
Grit: The size of abrasive particles on sandpaper or grinding tools, indicating coarseness or fineness.
Thread: The helical ridge on screws or bolts that allows them to be fastened securely.
Bit: The interchangeable part of a drill or screwdriver that actually makes contact with the fastener or material.
Ratchet: A tool that allows continuous turning in one direction without removing and repositioning the tool.

When using rotating tools to loosen or tighten, remember the standard threading is “left is loosening”, “right is tightening”.

The best way to accumulate tools is buying at least one every payday if you’re looking to build a quality set over time and not looking to start with a kit. Buy just one tool at the least, and your collection will grow pretty quick. I’d recommend starting with at least a small set from your local hardware or auto parts store that comes with a variety of things if you don’t want one of the kits mentioned above, then piece in others as you go. You may end up with duplicates as you decide to invest in more quality brands as you go. Here is a conversion chart to help you with standard size comparisons followed by the basic tools every shop should have;

WRENCHES AND SOCKETS

A wrench (also known as a spanner outside of North America) is used to grip and help apply torque to rotary fasteners, such as nuts and bolts or to keep them from turning when wrenching down another side. Sized wrenches come in fractions; SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and metric (shown above).

There are over 20 different types of wrenches so here we will just throw out a few basics to get you started;

ADJUSTABLE WRENCH

Commonly referred to as a Crescent wrench, but Crescent is actually a name brand and trademark that made them famous. They come in a variety of lengths and are great tools to have around, one of the first you should purchase. When using them always make sure the adjustable jaw is at the side you are turning, for example; if you are tightening a bolt, the adjustable jaw should be on the left of the nut/bolt, if loosening, it should be on the right, that way the pressure is being put on the “fixed” jaw. The problem with these is they are bulky so you need space around the bolt or nut you are trying to get to.

COMBINATION WRENCHES

OPEN-END

BOX-END or RING-END

Combination wrenches are the main ones you want to stock up on, long and short types and it seems you can never have too many of either size. You can buy them individually or as a set;

SAE 9 piece set usually consists of; 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4

Metric 9 piece (MM) set usually consists of; 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19

Another type of these wrenches that are handy to have are the ratcheting box-end type that contain a one-way mechanism which allows the wrench to be turned without removing it from the nut or bolt simply by cycling the handle backward and forward;

The upper one loosens or tightens depending on which side is up. The lower one has a lever where you can easily switch in place the loosening or tightening function.

Next we have the hex key wrenches;

Also commonly referred to as Allen wrenches but Allen is actually a name brand trademark, like Crescent. They are usually shaped as an “L” with hexagon shapes on both ends (some have a ball on one end as shown in the picture, good for swiveling if you can’t get the key in straight) used to drive bolts and screws with a hexagonal socket in the head. They come in metric and SAE as well and are sold usually as a set of each or a set with both types.

Ratchet/socket wrenches are another tool used to torque fasteners (nut/bolt combo) in quicker fashion than a normal wrench. It is a metal handle attached to a ratcheting mechanism normally consisting of a bar or wheel having inclined teeth into which a pawl drops so that motion can be imparted to the wheel or bar.

There are multiple types of square drive head ratchets but the primary use ones are as follows;

1/4″ drive (small) is good for smaller nuts and bolts that you don’t want to over-torque, like electronics. Think of its use as to just snug up nuts/bolts. I recommend using just 1 hand when tightening to prevent over-torque

3/8″ drive (medium) is good for your standard jobs like spark plugs, brake pads, and most under the hood work.

1/2″ drive (large) is more for vehicle lug nuts and larger bolts requiring more torque.

All ratchets allow effective motion in one direction only, but you can switch sides with a locking mechanism located on the back. You can also add things to these for optimal use like;

Extensions

and swivel extenders

Then you have the sockets that make them function;

Like ratchets, sockets come in three common sizes (drive end) 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″. Like wrenches they come in standard and/or metric sizes. Some can be short (shallow) and others can be tall (deep), some come thick walled for extra torque while others come thin walled for those tight applications. They come in 6 point or 12 point female ends for wrapping around nuts and bolts;

6-point & 12-point

Other accessories you can get to organize or better utilize your socket sets are;

Socket rails to organize those sockets

As well as the speed wrench for quick jobs that require little torque;

Breaker bar for loosening those corroded or over-torqued bolts;

A breaker bar is a long non-ratcheting bar that is used with sockets. Breaker bars are used to break loose very tight fasteners because their additional length allows the same amount of force to generate more torque than a standard length ratchet as well as prevents damage to the ratcheting mechanism of a ratchet. Since it is just used to break, you can switch to a ratchet once you get at least a half of a turn on the fastener.

You can improvise here and just add a long pipe wrapped around the ratchet too, referred to more commonly as the cheater bar

Breaker bars can have 3/8″ or 1/2″ ends but since they are primarily used to remove strong bolts like lug nuts that are applied with great torque by impact wrenches, 1/2″ would be needed the most.

Since power tools can be expensive, this is your best friend when you need to apply heavy torque to break loose or tighten down bolts/nuts.

TORQUE WRENCH;

Torque wrench is used for precise torque power on each nut/bolt.

SCREW/NUT DRIVERS

Screwdrivers are a necessity and come in all shapes and sizes and each are equally important, you can never have too many it seems.

Here are some standard shaft lengths and their uses;

Stubby for tight spaces usually have a shaft length of 1-1/2″

Standard for all around good use have a shaft length of around 4″

Tall and skinny for hard to reach spaces (tall and skinny can snap easy if heads are over torqued) have a length around 8-12″

Thick and sturdy ones can come in any length, the width is what is important here. These are good for using as small pry-bars as well as hitting them with hammers to get over-torqued stripped ones out or to knock things in and out of tight spaces.

Head shapes and sizes and their uses are;

FLATHEAD

Flat head, also known as slotted driver are one of the most basic tools ever designed. They come in a variety of sizes and lengths, with each meant to serve a specific purpose. They often serve as a miniature pry bars, scrapers, or chisels too, beyond their driving capabilities. Each size uses the same basic design with differences lying in the length of the shaft as well as the width and thickness of the driver itself. These tend to strip easy when trying to torque down so they are best used on adjustable settings or even applications just requiring a snug fit, like electronics.

PHILLIPS

Phillips, also known as cross driver are the more popular screw brand because they tend to torque better and strip less. Like the flat-head, they too come in many shapes and sizes but they are indicated by numbers, not fractions. Head numbers can fit multiple screws, here are some numbers with matching screw numbers;

Head #0 fits #0 and #1 screws.

Head #1 fits #2, #3, and #4 screws.

Head #2 fits #5, #6, #7, #8, and #9 screws.

Head #3 fits #10, #12, #14, and #16 screws.

Head #4 fits #18, #20, and #24 screws.

Of course, you can also learn head to screw sizes by trial and error, pending on torque of the screw needing to be loosened, heads may fit other screws not associated.

TORX

Torx, also known as a star driver seem to be more common nowadays as new automobile models come out with more electronics. Initially they were used more as a tamper resistant. Their sizes range in numeric as well but with a “T” defining it, such as T1-T10, then going to T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, etc. These are only a necessity if you plan to work on electronics or know that your vehicle has multiple torx heads.

HEX (NUTDRIVERS)

Nut-drivers are used to tighten nuts and bolts requiring much less torque than a wrench or ratchet is needed. Mainly used for electronics and connectors that just need to be snugged up. They tend to have hallow shafts to accommodate shanks/bolts that nuts are on. There are different variations of these as well;

1/4″ DRIVE HANDLES

1/4″ drive handles for switching sockets but as you can see, these are shallow drivers so if you’re trying to wrap around a long bolt you will need the standard or following types.

T-HANDLES

T-handles for better handling and hallow shafts

INTER-CHANGEABLE DRIVERS

Inter-changeable drivers have hallow shafts with a hallow slotted handle for quick and easy change outs. You can find kits of all drivers in this style.

MULTI-DRIVERS

These multi-drivers are very handy to have. Not quite as strong as standard drivers, these hold their own for standard jobs not requiring too much torque. Some swivel, some ratchet, some even work as storage containers for other bits.

PLIERS

Pliers are another necessity, there are many different varieties made for general or specific purposes. While they can be used to hold objects firmly, they are also useful for bending and compressing a wide range of materials. Pliers have a pair of short metal serrated jaws on one end and longer handles on the other. With a pivot point between the handle and jaws, it creates an advantage allowing the force of a hand grip to be amplified and focused on an object with precision, therefor, you can use them to manipulate objects that you normally can’t with fingers.

Different types of pliers are;

SLIP-JOINT

Slip joint pliers can adjust to two sizes, one where the serrated jaws meet when closed, and the other where there is about a 1/4″ gap closed. They are good for holding small to medium objects.

ADJUSTABLE PLIERS

Adjustable pliers, also known as water-pipe pliers or just Channellocks (Channellocks is actually a name brand, but some people refer to all these pliers as Channellocks) are serrated jaws sitting 45 to 60 degrees from the handles. The lower jaw can be moved to a number of positions by sliding along a tracking section under the upper jaw. They can adjust to a number of sizes without the distance in the handle growing wider, as well as often having longer handles for increased leverage.

DIAGONAL PLIERS

Diagonal pliers, also known as dikes in the US and snips or side-cutters to other parts of the world, are used for cutting wire and cables.

LOCK-JAW PLIERS

Lock-jaw pliers, also known as mole grips or the more popular term vice grips (Vice grip and Mole are name brands but the terms are still used as a common name to describe lockjaws) have an adjustable bolt on the longer side used to adjust the spacing of the jaws. The other side has a lever used to push the two sides of the handles apart for releasing the hold. They come in a variety of sizes and jaw styles like needle-nose, clamps, and even wrenches.

NEEDLE-NOSE PLIERS

Tall and short Needle-nose pliers, also known as long-nose pliers or pinch-nose pliers have long narrow serrated jaws with cutters on the closest to the handle. They are used for holding, bending, re-positioning and/or snipping wire. Their long shape makes them useful for reaching into small areas where cables and/or other materials have become stuck or unreachable with fingers.

HAMMERS AND PRYBARS

A hammer is a tool that delivers a blow to an object. Most hammers are used to drive nails, fit parts, forge metal, and break apart objects, they are basic tools in many trades. The usual features are a head (most often made of steel) and a handle (also called a helve or haft). There are over 10 different variations of hammers, varying in shape, size, and structure, for different purposes, here are 6 basic types you can use around the shop and home;

1. STANDARD CLAW HAMMER

Claw hammers are used to drive nails and fit parts with the flat end, as well as break apart objects and pull nails with the claw end but generally, a claw hammer is associated with woodworking but is not limited to use with wood products. It is not suitable for heavy hammering on metal surfaces though, such as in machining work, as the steel of its head is somewhat brittle. It is really a weaker version of #2;

2. FRAMING/CARPENTER CLAW HAMMER

The framing hammer is an over-sized claw hammer used in framing carpentry. The larger and heavier head can decrease the number of blows required to fully insert nails. Framing hammers commonly have a “checkered” face, which reduces skip-off of the head if the blow is not precisely struck on the nail. Framing hammers also have a much straighter claw than regular claw hammers, as the claw is designed more for prying nailed boards apart, rather than removing nails (though its claw can also be used in that capacity).

3. BALL-PEEN HAMMERS

Ball-peen hammers are good for striking punches and chisels (usually performed with the flat face of the hammer) and rounding off edges of metal pins and fasteners, such as rivets with the peening edge. They are more known as a machinist’s hammer and are more distinguished from other types such as cross-peen hammer, diagonal-peen hammer, point-peen hammer, or chisel-peen hammer by having a hemispherical head.

4. DEAD BLOW HAMMER

Dead blow hammers typically have an internal cavity partially filled with steel, lead shot, or loose sand. This modification evens out the curve of the impact, enabling a more powerful blow to be delivered without risk to the target.

5. RUBBER MALLET

Mallets are usually made of rubber, wood or rawhide, but there are soft metal types like copper and brass as well. They are used when a softer blow is called for than that delivered by a standard metal hammer or even a dead blow, and since they do not leave marks and are less likely to dent the work-piece, they are handy to have around when working on cars when you need to fit parts together by force.

6. SLEDGEHAMMER

Sledgehammers are great when absolute force is needed to drive an object into the ground or to dislodge something that is too big for a standard hammer.

STANDARD PRY-BARS

Pry-bars are heavy iron levers with one end forged into a wedge. Used to typically pry away parts (hence the name) but there are other variations like

JIM CROW-BAR

The Jim Crow is a crowbar slotted for pulling nails, others made for the same purpose are;

Tools