BASIC TOOLS

When it comes to work around the shop or home, in order to do it yourself you are going to need tools to get the job done. I have thrown together a list of basic tools that everyone should have at their disposal. You can purchase starter kits at Amazon for a fair price, here are a few decent basic Craftsman starter kits you can pick up through our affiliate links. Prices are subject to change but usually around the price tag listed.

Now, lets go over some basic terms;

• Fastener: A hardware dFevice such as a screw, bolt, or nail used to join two or more objects together.
• Torque: A measure of the twisting force applied to a fastener, usually expressed in pound-feet (lb-ft) or Newton-meters (Nm).
• Socket: A tool attachment designed to fit around a bolt or nut for tightening or loosening.
• Wrench (Spanner): A hand tool used to grip and turn nuts, bolts, or pipes.
• Drill Bit: A cutting tool attached to a drill to bore holes in materials.
• Pliers: A hand tool used to grip, bend, or cut wire and other materials.
• Chisel: A sharp-edged hand tool used for carving or cutting hard materials like wood or stone.
• Level: A tool used to determine if a surface is horizontal (level) or vertical (plumb).
• Clamps: Devices used to hold workpieces securely in place during work.
• Impact Driver: A power tool that delivers strong rotational force and concussive blows to drive screws or bolts.
• Caliper: A measuring tool used to determine the distance between two opposite sides of an object with precision.
• Grit: The size of abrasive particles on sandpaper or grinding tools, indicating coarseness or fineness.
• Thread: The helical ridge on screws or bolts that allows them to be fastened securely.
• Bit: The interchangeable part of a drill or screwdriver that actually makes contact with the fastener or material.
• Ratchet: A tool that allows continuous turning in one direction without removing and repositioning the tool.

When using rotating tools to loosen or tighten, remember the standard threading is “left is loosening”, “right is tightening”.

The best way to accumulate tools is buying at least one every payday if you’re looking to build a quality set over time and not looking to start with a kit. Buy just one tool at the least, and your collection will grow pretty quick. I’d recommend starting with at least a small set from your local hardware or auto parts store that comes with a variety of things if you don’t want one of the kits mentioned above, then piece in others as you go. You may end up with duplicates as you decide to invest in more quality brands as you go. Here is a conversion chart to help you with standard size comparisons followed by the basic tools every shop should have;

WRENCHES AND SOCKETS

A wrench (also known as a spanner outside of North America) is used to grip and help apply torque to rotary fasteners, such as nuts and bolts or to keep them from turning when wrenching down another side. Sized wrenches come in fractions; SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and metric (shown above).

There are over 20 different types of wrenches so here we will just throw out a few basics to get you started;

SAE 9 piece set usually consists of; 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4

Metric 9 piece (MM) set usually consists of; 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19

Next we have the hex key wrenches;

Ratchet/socket wrenches are another tool used to torque fasteners (nut/bolt combo) in quicker fashion than a normal wrench. It is a metal handle attached to a ratcheting mechanism normally consisting of  a bar or wheel having inclined teeth into which a pawl drops so that motion can be imparted to the wheel or bar.

You can also add things to these for optimal use like;

SCREW/NUT DRIVERS

Screwdrivers are a necessity and come in all shapes and sizes and each are equally important, you can never have too many it seems.

Here are some standard shaft lengths and their uses;

Stubby for tight spaces usually have a shaft length of 1-1/2″

Standard for all around good use have a shaft length of around 4″

Tall and skinny for hard to reach spaces (tall and skinny can snap easy if heads are over torqued) have a length around 8-12″

Thick and sturdy ones can come in any length, the width is what is important here. These are good for using as small pry-bars as well as hitting them with hammers to get over-torqued stripped ones out or to knock things in and out of tight spaces.

Head shapes and sizes and their uses are;

HEX (NUTDRIVERS)

Nut-drivers are used to tighten nuts and bolts requiring much less torque than a wrench or ratchet is needed. Mainly used for electronics and connectors that just need to be snugged up. They tend to have hallow shafts to accommodate shanks/bolts that nuts are on. There are different variations of these as well;

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PLIERS

Pliers are another necessity, there are many different varieties made for general or specific purposes. While they can be used to hold objects firmly, they are also useful for bending and compressing a wide range of materials. Pliers have a pair of short metal serrated jaws on one end and longer handles on the other. With a pivot point between the handle and jaws, it creates an advantage allowing the force of a hand grip to be amplified and focused on an object with precision, therefor, you can use them to manipulate objects that you normally can’t with fingers.

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HAMMERS AND PRYBARS

A hammer is a tool that delivers a blow to an object. Most hammers are used to drive nails, fit parts, forge metal, and break apart objects, they are basic tools in many trades. The usual features are a head (most often made of steel) and a handle (also called a helve or haft). There are over 10 different variations of hammers, varying in shape, size, and structure, for different purposes, here are 6 basic types you can use around the shop and home;

Claw hammers are used to drive nails and fit parts with the flat end, as well as break apart objects and pull nails with the claw end but generally, a claw hammer is associated with woodworking but is not limited to use with wood products. It is not suitable for heavy hammering on metal surfaces though, such as in machining work, as the steel of its head is somewhat brittle. It is really a weaker version of #2;